Handloom Construction and Use

1 Which Loom to Build?

The decision to build one loom rather than another should be made after considering a number of questions.

1. What kind of cloth or article is to be made?

If there is only one kind of fibre available, then this fact can dictate the choice of product and the loom. If there is a variety of fibres, choose a loom that can handle those fibres used most often in the type of products or articles being produced.

2. What size cloth is needed?

Will all the cloth you make be the same width, or do you want to make articles of varying widths? Some looms can weave cloth of varying dimensions, but most weave only within certain limits for width and length.

3. How fast does the material have to be produced?

Will you be weaving for personal use or to meet market demands? In general, the more complex the loom, the faster it weaves. However, a weaver's skill can often compensate for the slower rate of a simple loom.

4. What materials are available locally for loom building?

In general it is almost always cheaper to build a loom than to buy one. In many places it may not be possible to find or import the type of loom needed. The basic construction material for simple looms is wood. Almost any kind of wood can be used as long as it is as straight as possible and well-seasoned. It need not be milled lumber. Tree limbs with the bark removed make excellent loom supports.

With an understanding of the basic principles of weaving and a little carpentry skill, the looms in this manual can be adapted to work with most materials available anywhere.

This chapter will help the user make the decision by providing information on each of these points, beginning with the discussion of fibres. This seems a good place to begin because it appears to be the case that few people realize the range and variety of materials which can be woven. Guidelines are provided for preparing fibres and for judging whether there is sufficient quantity to complete a product.

Fibers: Choice and Preparation

In order to compete with manufactured cloth, handwoven cloth must be made from free or inexpensive materials available locally. If weaving is done now, or was done in the past, learn which materials are used and how they are prepared. Fibers from domestic plants

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and animals will usually be available in greater quantities than those from wild sources. However, sometimes grain straw or sugarcane residues can be used in weaving. Domesticated animals such as sheep, goats, rabbits, camels and many others can also provide quantities of useful fibres.

Experiment with new materials as well. Perhaps a nearby factory discards packing materials of natural fibres, synthetics or plastics. Sheets of plastic or old plastic bags can be cut into strips and woven to make waterproof mats and raingear. Old clothing and cloth can be cut into strips and woven into the rag rugs which are traditional in many parts of the world. <see picture>

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Even cardboard and paper, when made into strips, can be woven.

Almost any fibre, if it is clean, pliable and either in strips or capable of being spun into thread, can be used in weaving; the range of materials that can be used is almost endless. The following list is just a sample of the variety of fibres and materials used in different parts of the world for weaving.

Sources of Materials for Weaving

ANIMAL/INSECT VEGETABLE MAN-MADE

Buffalo Amaryllidaceae-Agave, Sisal, Mauritius Hemp Acrylics
Camel Apocynaceae and Asclepiadociae-Milkweed Cardboard
Cattle Bombacaceae-Kapok Old Cloth
Cat Bromeliaceae-Kapok Paper
Chinchilla Bromeliaceae-Caroa, Pineapple, Spanish Moss Plastic
Dog Gratineae-Broomcorn Polyester
Fox Leguminosae-Sunn Hemp Rayon
Goat Liliaceae-Formio Flax, African Bowstring
Guinea Pig Linaceae-Flax
Horse Malvaceae-Bimili, Cotton, Henaf, Hibiscus, Mesta, Llama Okra, Urena
Musk Ox Moraceae-Hemp, Paper Mulberry
Opposum Musaceae-Abaca, Banana
Rabbit Palmae-Coir (Coconut), Crin vegetal, Palmetto
Racoon Piassava, Toquilla
Sheep Tiliaceae-Jute Basswood
Silkworm Thymeliaceae-Lace Bark Vicuna Urticaceae-Ramie (China Grass)
Yak

Also various grasses, reeds and bamboos, as well as crop residues-grain straw, bagasse (sugarcane)

Preparing Fibers for Weaving

Part of the consideration of whether a certain fibre is appropriate for use is the quantity in which it is available and, of course, the amount of time and effort required to prepare it for weaving. The discussion here is not intended to be a complete guide to fibre preparation. Indeed, that will be the subject of another book. Rather, the purpose of this discussion is to give enough information on fibre preparation to enable wise decisions concerning the use of the looms to be described in this manual.

Very few fibres are ready for weaving in their natural state. Most require some special preparation to make them flexible or thin enough for weaving. Although each fibre requires specific handling, the following illustrations summarize the basic processes required by most fibres.

  Fiber Preparation

1. Cleaning - Most fibres must have dirt, seeds, sticky sap, husks or oils removed. For some this involves washing or soaking.

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2. Drying - Fibers that are washed or soaked usually are air-dried in sun or light shade.

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3. Combing - Fibers are drawn through a toothed tool in a manner similar to combing one's hair. This straightens and smooths the fibres to prepare them for spinning.

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4. Spinning or Twisting -

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Spinning:some fibres, such as wool, hair and fluffy plant materials - cotton, flax, milkweed, etc. - can be made into continuous strands by spinning. Spinning involves pulling off small bits of the fibre and twisting them tightly together. This can be done with a drop spindle or spinning wheel as illustrated.

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Twisting: strips of plant material - leaves, grasses, stalks, etc. - and of old cloth or plastic can be made thicker and stronger by placing a heavy weight on one end and turning the strip in one direction until it is round in circumference.

5. Plying - Fibers can be made stronger by twisting together two or more strands.

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Spun or twisted fibres should be twisted in the direction opposite from which they were spun or twisted before. The same technique described for spinning or twisting can be used. Two-ply means the yarn is made of two strands, four-ply from four, etc.

The potential builder now has some idea of the range of materials which can be used for weaving and of the steps involved in preparing them. It is also important that the builder or user at this point have an idea of what needs to be woven and of how fast the articles must be completed.

Key to this knowledge is understanding of the kinds of products which can be woven out of which fibres and of how much material is necessary for a given product.

What Products to Weave

Many items can be woven. Some woven products are not finished on a loom, but must be sewn or fastened together after the material is woven on the loom. Bags, sacks, clothing are good examples. <see picture>

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Other products, such as belts, mats and rugs can be almost completely finished on the loom. This is a time factor to be considered.

Regardless of the fibre used or the final product desired, all weaving consists of alternating rows of threads, yarn or strips made from the raw material. The vertical threads are called the warp; the horizontal threads are called the weft. (As indicated previously, the fibres may be one-, two- or four-ply depending upon the number of strands twisted together. Essentially, the purpose of all looms, no matter how complex, is to hold the warp (fibres) very tightly so that the weft (fibres) can be pulled across over one strand, under the next, over and under as shown in the illustration on the previous page.

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When considering the product to be made it is useful to know that warp and weft fibres do not have to be the same.

If you find you do not have enough of one fibre, it is possible to combine two or more in the same cloth. Always use the stronger for the warp. The following chart shows how fibres may be combined in certain articles.

A selected warp from the chart may be used in combination with one or more of the wefts listed for the same article. For example, an attractive and sturdy bag for carrying water bottles could be made using a two-ply wool warp and a weft of alternating bands of one-ply wool, coarse goathair and jute. A similar bag might have a warp of heavy cotton and alternating wefts of linen, cotton and jute. Combinations of different fibres will produce cloth of varying textures. In choosing fibres for a specific article consider the textural effect of the finished cloth: clothing and linens should use fibres that are soft to the touch; rugs, sacks, and mats can use the coarser fibres.

Suggested Warps and Wefts

ARTICLE
WARP WEFT

Bags -
Heavy cotton Heavy cotton
2-4 ply wool 1-2 ply wool
Linen Linen
Jute Coarse goathair Jute

Belts -
Heavy cotton
Cotton
2-4 ply wool 1-2 ply wool
Linen Linen
Jute Jute
Hemp Hemp

Blankets -
Heavy cotton Heavy cotton
2-4 ply wool
1-4 ply wool
2 ply coarse goathair
soft and coarse goathair
Linen Linen

Fabric- (Heavy--for jackets, coats, capes, pants )
Heavy cotton Heavy cotton
2-4 ply wool 2-4 ply wool
2 ply coarse goathair 2 ply coarse goathair
Heavy linen Heavy linen

Fabric - (Light--for dresses, shirts, and table linens)
Medium, heavy cotton Medium, fine cotton
Fine 2 ply wool 1-2 ply fine wool
Fine, medium linen Fine linen
Silk Synthetics

ARTICLE
WARP WEFT

Mats -
Heavy cotton Jute
Heavy linen Hemp
Jute Straw
Hemp Cardboard and many other vegetable fibres

Raingear -
Heavy cotton Loosely spun goathair
Heavy linen Plastic strips
2 ply coarse goathair

Rugs -
Heavy cotton Heavy cotton
2-4 ply wool 1-4 ply wool
Heavy linen Old cloth cut in strips
Jute Jute
Hemp Animal Hair

Sacks -
Heavy cotton Heavy cotton
2-4 ply wool 2-4 ply wool
Heavy linen Heavy linen
Jute Jute Hemp

Sheets -
Medium, heavy cotton Medium, fine cotton
Fine 2 ply wool Fine 1 and 2 ply wool
Medium, heavy linen Medium, fine linen Silk

Wall Hangings -
Cotton Any 2-4 ply wool
Linen Silk Synthetics

Once there is an idea of what fibres are available and of the ways in which fibres can be combined to produce a product, it is necessary to make sure there is an adequate supply of fibres to produce the thread or yarn for the desired products. Or to look at the same point in another way, it is necessary to find out how much yarn or thread is needed to produce the cloth for a given article.

Here is a rough formula for estimating the amount of thread necessary:

A. Estimate how many vertical threads (warp) there will be in one square centimeter of cloth. (The thinner the thread, the more there will be.

B. Estimate how many horizontal threads (weft) will be in the same square centimeter of cloth.

C. Determine the width of the finished piece of cloth. (in cm.)

D. Determine the length of the finished piece of cloth. (in cm.)

(AxC) x D = the length of warp needed

(BxD) x C = the length of weft needed

(AxCxD) + (BxDxC) = total thread needed

for cloth.

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Remember that this is just an estimate. It is always a good idea to have extra warp and weft. (See pages 127 & 128 for a further discussion of determining amounts of warp and weft needed.

The Looms

The Simple Frame Loom is the most basic design for a loom. The frame, a structure of four pieces of wood, serves to keep the warp (vertical) threads taut and straight so that the weft (horizontal) can pass through more easily.

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The loom has a shed stick and heddle which make the weaving go faster and more uniformly than on an even simpler loom where the weaver must intertwine the warp and weft with just the fingers. The frame loom requires less time in construction and in setting up the warp than the more complex foot-powered loom, but requires a greater investment in time spent in the actual weaving of the cloth.

Even though it is slower and simpler than other looms, the frame loom has certain advantages to be considered. Only the frame loom can be made big enough to weave large, one-piece fabrics, rugs and mats.

Variations of this loom are used, for example, to weave Persian or Oriental rugs in Afganistan and Iran. Another advantage of the frame loom is that it is especially suited to weaving very coarse fibres and is useful for weaving heavy mats of straw, grasses or similar fibres.

The frame loom is also very suitable for weaving pile or shag rugs, and tapestries. The knotted and tapestry weaves used for such rugs require slow painstaking fingerweaving by the weaver no matter which style loom is used, and so the foot-powered loom loses its advantage of greater speed when this kind of work is being done.

The Inkle Loom is designed to produce very strong continuous bands or strips of fabric ranging from about 2 to 28 centimeters. This loom is popular for weaving belts and decorative trims.

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Although the inkle loom produces a limited size and type of material (the strips range in length from 90 to 180 centimeters), it has advantages for some situations and uses.

The Inkle Loom is fairly small; some versions are small enough to hold in one's lap or work on a table. This can be an advantage if working space is limited. An ingenious system of changing the warp makes setting up the loom and weaving on it a very rapid process. Many beautiful and intricate patterns can be developed and carried out on the loom. The fabric produced is warp-faced which means that the weft does not show at all in the finished cloth. This means that if fibres for weaving are limited, excellent cloth can be produced by using good fibres for the warp and poorer ones in the weft. Even if one of the other looms is chosen, the Inkle Loom is a good supplementary loom on which to weave straps and trim for bags, blankets, and clothing woven on the other looms.

The Foot-Powered Multiple Harness Loom has been used with success in many places throughout the world. It incorporates most of the features necessary for a smooth, consistent production of fabric. Although designs for more complex versions exist, and can be found in some of the sources listed on pages 157-162, the foot-powered loom design presented here has been chosen as more suitable for construction where materials, carpentry skills and tools are in limited supply.

Two versions of this loom are presented.

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The Pit Loom is built permanently into the floor and wall or ceiling of a dwelling. Because it uses the structure of the building in this way, it requires a minimum of wood and is, therefore, very suitable for construction in areas where wood is expensive or in limited supply. The design for this loom is based on models in current use in Greece, the Balkans, Turkey, and Northern India.

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The other version presented is a Free-standing or Self-supporting Loom. The moveable parts of this version are supported by a large, sturdy wood frame which can be disassembled for storage. This loom requires more wood and carpentry skill than all the others presented in this manual. However, it does not have to be made of commercially milled lumber, but can be constructed from unmilled tree limbs. Looms of this design are also used in Greece, and the Balkans, Turkey, Iran, and were once common in northern Europe and Colonial America. Both versions, the Pit Loom and the Free-Standing Loom, use the same moveable parts. The advantage to this is shown particularly in cases where it is not possible to construct enough frames for every family that wishes to weave. When this is the case, a village may choose to build a few of either or both types. Each family then has a set of moveable parts and the families share use of the several loom frames. This allows more people to weave than might otherwise be possible.

Some other important features of these last two loom designs are the use of multiple harnesses and footpedals (or treadles). Multiple harnesses refer to the combination of pulleys and heddles which raise and lower the warp. These looms can use up to eight harnesses. This means the loom is smooth and fast operating, and also that there is a great variety of weaves and patterns possible. (See Chapter 7.) The use of footpedals frees both hands to deal with the weft and shuttles.

The warp used on these looms must be very strong and even. Cotton, wool, linen, jute and silk have all been used on this type of loom. (See chart on page 20.) The weft, however, can be quite variable--from yarn to rags, raw wool and plant fibres. And although the warping process is complex and time consuming, the foot-powered loom can hold a great quantity of warp, enough for several large articles, so warping need not be done frequently.

This loom is particularly suited for cottage industries where an investment in the more complex framework will pay off in the resulting uniformity and strength of the fabric.

The tables on the following pages bring much of the information which has been presented together in a form which enables easier comparison. Table I presents an overview of the looms from the standpoint of size of finished material, fibres best used, speed, etc. For example, the loom builder can see from Table I that if speed is not a consideration and ease of construction is, the frame loom may be a good choice.

Table II shows some common fibres and their suitability for use in warp and weft on these looms. Table III presents some guidelines as to the products which can be woven on each loom.

  Table I--A Comparison of these Looms

FRAME LOOM - INKLE LOOM - FOOT-POWERED LOOM

Size Range of
h.30 cm and up 30 to 90 cm 120 to 150 cm Loom Frame w.30 cm and up 6 to 30 cm 90 to 120 cm Width of 4 cm and up 2 to 28 cm 2 to 100 cm Finished Cloth Length of Warp 2 X Loom hgt. 90 cm 200 cm to 3600 cm Held on Loom

Ease of
Easy, little Easy, some Complex, some Construction carpentry skill carpentry carpentry skill needed skill helpful needed

Type of Materials
Wood Wood Wood needed for Nails Dowels Reed or Bamboo Construction Sticks Screws Cement, Shovel Cord Saw, Chisel Saw, Chisel, Drill (See specific Hammer, Drill Screwdriver Rope, Cord, String sections on Knife Drill Knife construction Rocks for more detail)

Best Fibers
Fine to Coarse Good quality Good quality of all kinds warps - thin to warps - thin to thick;
Weft does medium thickness; not show - can be All kinds of weft of varying quality

Speed
Relatively slow Fast Fast

Handling
Small sizes very Small, easy to Large;
Pit Loom convenient to use and store style is a permanent use and store;
installation in Large sizes (90cm home;
Self-supporting and over) harder can be disassembled to handle. Looms to store.
Both are wider than 120cm, easy to use - both may require two hands are free to weavers. deal with weft.

Table II--Sample Fibers and their Suitability for use on these Looms

FIBER: FRAME LOOM - INKLE LOOM - FOOT-POWERED LOOM

Warp Weft Warp
Weft Warp Weft

Cotton - fine
no yes no
yes yes yes

Cotton - heavy
yes yes yes
yes yes yes

Flax (Linen)
- long fibres
yes yes yes
yes yes yes
- tow
no yes no
yes no yes

Wool - 1 ply
no yes no
yes no yes

Wool - 2-4 ply
yes yes yes
yes yes yes

Jute - loose spun
no yes no
yes no yes

Jute - 2-4 ply
yes yes yes
yes yes yes

Angora rabbit
no yes yes
yes yes yes

Goathair (coarse)
- loose spun
no yes no
yes no yes
-
2 ply
yes yes yes
yes yes yes

Mohair - loose spun
no yes no
yes no yes

Silk
yes
yes yes yes
yes yes

Straw
no yes no
yes no yes

Plastic strips
no yes yes
yes no yes

Table III--What to Weave on Which Looms

ARTICLE: FRAME LOOM - INKLE LOOM - FOOT-POWERED LOOM

Bags yes no yes
Belts yes yes no
Blankets yes no yes
Fabric (heavy) yes no yes
Fabric (light) no no yes
Mats yes no no
Rugs yes no yes
Sacks yes no yes
Sheets no no yes
Straps no yes no
Towels yes no yes
Trim no yes no