Handloom Construction and Use
3 The Simple Frame Loom
The following directions explain how to build a very basic loom.
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No dimensions are given since there is no real limit on the size of the loom. The smallest practical size, however, is probably about 30cm in either direction. While it is possible to build looms smaller than 30cm, it is not practical because weaving narrower than 30cm can be done on the 30cm framework. Therefore, loom size can vary from one made small enough to hold in the lap (30 by 60cm is a good size) or large enough to weave a room size rug. Such large-size looms must be worked by several weavers at one time.
Materials Needed
FOR THE FRAME
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Two (2) sturdy pieces of wood(*) slightly larger than the desired width of the finished cloth. These will be horizontal pieces of the frame (AB and CD).
Two (2) sturdy pieces of wood(*) slightly longer than two thirds the desired length of the finished cloth. These will be the vertical pieces (EF and GH).
(*) NOTE: This wood and any other wood used for this loom need not be commercial lumber. Tree limbs with the bark removed may be used instead.
Lashing or Nails to join the frame.
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FOR THE HEDDLE
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ended stones. (See page 92, "Heddle Construction" for proper size.)
One (1) strong stick, the width of the loom frame.
A length of cotton or synthetic cord (such as is used in fishnets) about four (4) times the width of the loom.
Two (2) blocks of wood or two (2) flat
FOR THE SHED STICK
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One (1) rounded piece of wood, the width of the loom. For looms between 30 and 60cm wide, it should be about 4cm in diameter; for looms between 60 and 120cm wide, 8cm in diameter; for looms between 120 and 180cm wide, 12cm in diameter, and so on. Increase 4cm for every 60cm in width.
FOR LEASE STICKS
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Two (2) lightweight poles, such as reed or bamboo, the width of the loom.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
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Hammer Drill Sharp Knife Sandpaper Oil for Wood
Before beginning to build, please note the following:
1. The wood used must be as straight as possible and well-seasoned so it will not warp during use.
2. Smooth and sand the wood so there are no rough spots that will catch the thread or yarn.
3. Oil the wood rather than use paint or varnish. Oil keeps the wood from drying and cracking, and provides a smooth renewable finish for the yarn to move against.
4. The top and bottom crosspieces (called the cloth and warp beam on the foot-powered loom) must be at right angles to the warp threads and parallel to each other. Measure carefully during construction to make sure they are parallel.
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Construction
A. Prepare wood pieces
1. Remove bark if necessary
2. Sand and smooth rough places
3. Oil wood to prevent splitting
B. Build the Frame
1. Join the four pieces of wood to make a rectangular frame.
2. The pieces AB and CD (width) should overlap the pieces EF and GH (length) as shown in the illustration. AB and CD must be on top of EF and GH.
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3. Lash or nail the joints together so that the pieces do not move and are at right angles to each other--as shown below left.
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C. Prepare the Heddle Stick
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1. About 2 to 3cm in from each end of the stick cut a groove 0.3cm deep completely around the circumference.
D. Prepare the Lease Sticks
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1. About 2cm in from the ends of each stick, drill a hole completely through to the other side. The hole should be large enough to put a piece of string through
. The Frame is Now Complete
Set Up the Loom for Weaving
NOTE: Before setting up the warp, you may wish to read Chapter 7 , Weaves, Patterns and Finishing Touches. This may help you choose a weave and/or a pattern to set up. Plain weave or a basket weave and/or a striped or plaid pattern are recommended for your first weaving attempt.
A. Warp the Loom
1. Gather the warp into a ball, or in the case of very stiff fibres, into an easily undone skein.
2. Tie one end of the warp, in an easily undone knot such as a half-hitch, to the far inside corner of crosspiece AB (as shown above).
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3. Unwind a small length of warp and bring it up and around crosspiece CD (as shown).
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4. Bring the warp down and around AB in the same direction you started as illustrated at bottom left.
5. Continue Steps 2 thru 4 until the desired number of warp threads is reached (as shown below). (See page 127, for calculating the number of warp threads.)
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6. Untie the beginning end and join with a square knot to the other end, so that they stretch diagonally across the back of the loom. <see picture>
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7. Make sure all the warp threads are stretched as taut as possible.
NOTE: If your pattern calls for several different colour warp threads, such as in a plaid, start warping as indicated in Steps 1 thru 4, and then:
a. When the desired number of the first colour warp is reached, do not cut off the extra warp but set aside the whole ball of remaining warp still attached to the loom.
b. Pick up a ball or skein of the next colour.
c. Tie the end of the new colour to AB using a half-hitch.
d. Wrap the new colour around as described in Steps 2 thru 4.
e. When the desired number of threads have been wound, set aside this ball like the first; do not cut it off.
f. Start the next colour in the same way. If you must repeat a colour, just pick up the original ball of that colour, pull it taut and continue winding.
g. When all the required warp is wound around the frame, untie all the beginning ends from AB and hold them in one hand.
h. Pick up the free ends of all the colours of warp and tie both groups together using a square knot. On very wide looms it may be necessary to tie the ends in several groups. <see picture>
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Your Loom is Now Warped
B. Place the Shed Stick on the Loom
NOTE: Look at the warped loom frame. Notice that there is one set of warp threads on the top side and another set on the bottom. If you grabbed all the warp on one side and pulled on it, the warp would slide around the loom, so that the side that was in back moves to the front, or top. This is a continuous warp--there is no beginning and no end. In the following directions, you will be attaching the working parts to the loom. They must be attached only to the top side of the warp, so that the warp will continue to slide around freely. When the warp is referred to as being lowered or raised, this refers only to the top warp threads.
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1. Lay the loom flat on a table or the ground.
2. Place the shed stick across the middle of the loom, at right angles to the warp threads.
3. Weave the stick in and out of the top warp threads, going over and under every other top warp for Plain Weave. If you are using another weave check for the proper order. <see picture>
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4. This shed stick will be left in place during the entire weaving process, but it should be free to slide up and down the loom at right angles to the warp.
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C. Place the Lease Sticks on the Loom
1. Take one of the lease sticks and place it above the shed stick, going over and under the same top warp threads as did the shed stick. (Loom should still be lying flat on ground.)
2. Push this stick towards the top of the loom or crosspiece CD as shown above.
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3. Take the other stick and place it in the space between the shed stick and the other lease stick as shown below.
4. Weave the second stick in and out of the top warp, going under the warp threads lowered by the shed stick, and over the ones raised by it. This will tighten the warp on the loom.
5. Slide the two lease sticks together until they are 4 to 8cm apart. <see picture>
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6. Tie them together by putting a string through the holes at each end and tying as illustrated (left) using a square knot. This will keep the sticks together and prevent them from slipping sideways.
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D. Make the Heddle
1. With the loom still lying flat on the ground, lay the heddle rod across the lifted top warp threads that are in front of the shed stick as shown.
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2. Move the heddle rod closer to the shed stick so that the bottom edge of the heddle stick is even with the top edge of the shed stick. Check this by looking at the loom from the side. The heddle rod should still be resting directly on the raised top warp threads.
3. Place a block of wood or a flat ended stone of the right size at each end of the heddle stick so that the heddle remains at the same height as the shed stick. If the loom will be used on the lap or in an upright position lash the blocks or stones to the frame. Do not permanently fasten them, however, as the heddle rod must move up and down the loom during weaving. A simple lashing that can be untied easily works best. On small looms tape can be used.
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4. Tie the end of the cord of string in the groove at one end of the heddle stick.
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NOTE: The next Steps 5, 6, 7 and 8 describe the process of attaching the heddle to the warp. Read the directions through and study the illustrations before beginning. Remember that raised and lowered warp refers to the top warp only.
5. Loop the cord once completely around the heddle stick, bring the end of the cord down, under the first lowered warp thread and then back up between the same two raised warp threads. <see picture>
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6. Continue the cord over the heddle stick again, and then repeat the process of going between the two raised warp threads, under a lowered one, back up between the same two warps and over and around the heddle stick.
7. As each lowered warp thread is looped by the cord, pull the lowered warp up to the same height as the raised warp threads.
8. Repeat the above process until all the lowered top warp threads are raised to the same height by the cord. Tie the end of the cord in the groove at the other end of the heddle stick. <see picture>
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E. Check the Position of Heddle and Shed Stick
1. Position the heddle stick relative to the shed stick so that there is enough room for your fist behind the heddle rod.
2. Press down on the warp behind the heddle with your fist.
3. This should create a shed or space in front of the heddle and between the top warp threads that is large enough to pass your shuttle through.
4. Lift up on the warp threads behind the heddle using your fingers and palm. This should also create a shed big enough for the shuttle.
5. If your shuttle does not fit through easily, adjustments can be made in the size of the shed by moving the heddle and shed stick either further apart or closer together. <see picture>
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F. Positioning the Loom
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1. Depending on the size and shape of the loom it can be used in one of three positions:
1) Held on the lap
2) Leaned against a wall or tree, the weaver either sitting on the ground or a stool, or if the loom is tall, standing.
3) Laid flat on the ground. As the weaving progresses the weaver can sit on the finished cloth.
You Are Now Ready to Weave
How to Weave on a Frame Loom
You will need a Beater, Shuttle and a Stretcher to help you weave. Consult Chapter 6, "The Weaver's Tools" for directions for making these and other helpful tools.
Steps in Weaving
1. Wrap weft on to shuttle.
2. Press down on warp behind heddle with fist.
3. Slide shuttle into shed created in front of heddle.
4. Move fist to next section of warp, press down and slide shuttle along.*
5. Repeat this process until shuttle has reached other side of the loom. With practice you will develop a steady rhythm. <see picture>
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(*) On very large looms you may prefer to use a piece of wood instead of your hand.
6. Pull shuttle out and beat weft tightly into place with a Beater.
7. Repeat from Step 3, but start at the other side of the loom and instead of pressing down on the warp, lift it up using the fingers and palm.* <see picture>
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(*) On very large looms you may prefer to use a piece of wood instead of your hand.
8. Beat the weft in after each row.
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Remember to alternate each row - one pushing down, one pulling up.
9. After you have woven about 10cm of fabric, put a Stretcher in position as shown in illustration at left.
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10. Continue weaving until you reach the heddle and can no longer fit the shuttle through the shed.
11. Release the tension on the warp by removing the blocks or rocks holding the heddle rod. Holding the finished weaving on both sides, pull down slowly and steadily so that the finished cloth moves down and under the bottom crosspiece AB. <see picture>
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12. Adjust the position of the heddle, shed stick and lease sticks so that the shed is the proper size.
13. Weave as before on the new warp.
14. When you reach the top beam of the loom with the lease sticks and shed stick you can advance the warp by pulling down on all the warp threads so that the finished woven cloth moves under the bottom beam and around to the back side of the loom. The unwoven warp will slide over the top beam to the front. Adjust the diagonal warps so they are parallel on the front side. (They will remain twisted on the back) Move the heddle, shed stick and lease sticks into proper position and continue weaving. <see picture>
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15. When the weaving can be advanced no further, or the cloth is the desired length, the weaving is finished.
16. Cut the warp so that there is an equal length of extra warp threads on both ends of the cloth. Remove from loom and tie ends to prevent unraveling <see picture> (See pages 145-155.)
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Variations of the Simple Frame Loom
The Pegged Loom: This loom is suitable for places where the weaver can work outside or where dwellings have earthen floors.
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Materials Needed: Same as Frame Loom except instead of four crosspieces only two are needed. These should be slightly longer than the desired width of cloth.
Prepare the materials as described for the frame loom.
Warp the Loom
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1. Put the two crosspieces upright in the ground, slightly farther apart than the desired length of the weaving.
2. Place the two lease sticks upright in the ground, between the two crosspieces and about 30cm apart.
3. Tie the end of the warp to one crosspiece. Wrap the warp around the four uprights as shown, until the desired number of warp threads are reached.
Each warp thread is tied to the loom separately. <see picture>
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4. Untie the first warp end and tie it to the other end.
5. Taking care to keep the warp in place, pull up the crosspieces and lease sticks carefully from the ground and lay them flat where the weaving will be done. <see picture>
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6. Drive stakes on the inside ends of each crosspiece. Make sure the warp is stretched tightly.
NOTE: An important difference between the Frame Loom and the Pegged Loom is that the Pegged Loom does not have a continuous warp. This means that all the warp threads both top and bottom will be picked up by the shed stick and heddle as the weaver works.
Place the Shed Stick on the Loom
1. This is done the same way as the Frame Loom except all the warp threads are used.
The Lease Sticks
The sticks are already in position because of the way the loom was warped.
The Heddle
1. The heddle is put into position the same way as on the Frame Loom.
2. The blocks or stones that support the heddle will rest on the ground, since there is no frame.
3. When looping the lowered warp with the cord, remember to pick up all lowered warp threads. <see picture>
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How to Weave on a Pegged Loom
Weaving progresses in much the same way as it does on the Frame Loom--except that the warp does not move. Instead, as the cloth approaches the heddle, the heddle, shed stick and lease sticks are moved back. The weaver moves forward by sitting on the finished weaving.
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